Tag: Greece

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A Pilgrimage to the Past

Zakynthos

Zakynthos -or Zante – a tale of two halves?

Before we travelled, it was probably already bottom of the pecking order of our favourite islands and our couple of days on the island had to be reduced due to the great “Lekada Palace ferry crisis” – our plans predicated on a ferry that did not get a licence for this summer meant that we only had one full day on the island.

For that day, for old times sake, we took a bus down to Laganas – the islands main resort, and one we had stayed in in 1994. Back then it was becoming “clubby” with bars running late into the night, and proppers trying to entice you in with cheap/free drinks, now that transformation has been complete.

On the main strip there was not a chequered tablecloth to be seen – just a mass of tarmac, concrete and neon signs. The beach itself was a small sandy strip and the sea ever so shallow. Sunbeds dominated the the seafront, I recall enjoying my stay in ’94, but wasn’t wowed by it, now I was glad to have gone back and seen it, but am fairly confident I shan’t be returning. If this was what all of Greece was like, I don’t think I would have fallen in love with the country.

However, I am 57, not 17. If I were the latter I may see the resort in a whole different light.

Zante town itself was pretty enough, and did begin to grow on me.

In the course of our 5 week odyssey, we ate many chicken souvlakis, but possibly none so good as the one on our first evening in Taverna Dimitris.

The town was small, so possibly not enough to keep one’s interest beyond a day or so, but it had a chilled charm

and a nice swimming spot – clear, warm sea, and frequented by the locals, so a good recommendation

We had to leave a day early to catch a ferry from the north of the island to Kefalonia and I’d booked tickets for the evening ferry from Agios Nikolas (the northern one, there are two towns of this name on Zakynthos) as it was the only one available on FerryHopper. But talking to the ticket agent in town, she told us there was a morning ferry as well, and that the bus service from town to Agios Nikolas, to connect with the ferry, had just started running that week. So early in the morning we schlepped (and it was a loooong schlep) from our accommodation, across town and the harbour to the bus stop.

But we discovered that being up and about a 7am had its benefits in the undisturbed beauty of the early morning.

and finally arriving at the bus stop, we dropped our bags and I went in search of a bakery for breakfast, and we shared the best bougatsa of the hoilday.

We caught our bus and, as we journeyed north, we saw different side to Zakynthos, a remote, rugged beauty that may draw me back to explore further in the future.

Arriving at Agios Nikolas I popped to the ticket office – a rusty, beat up old transit van …

to ask if I could use my pre-purchased evening e-ticket on this morning’s sailing and it was agreed that we could.

The ship hooved into view, and we boarded, ready to sail away from Zakynthos

Having had a glimpse of the north of the island, perhaps we will return one day. As an island, it was cheap, the food was good, the south is to be avoided, the town pretty. Still low in my league table of Greek islands, but possibly we’ve not (yet?) seen the best of it.

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A Pilgrimage to the past – day 3

Plans!

Having planned our route and itinerary way back in September and October, it was in May that our plans began to unravel. Our route was based on the availability of ferries from one island to another, and accommodation booked to accommodate the days they sailed. But a part of our planning was scuppered by the Lefkada Palace ferry not being granted a licence to operate, creating our first hurdle, how to get off Zakynthos and over to Ithaca.

Instead of hopping on a ferry in Zante town a=on Saturday morning, sitting on a ferry for a couple of hours and arriving on Ithaca, the only solution I could find was to get an evening ferry from Agios Nikolaos in northern Zante on Friday night, then a taxi across Kefalonia, stay a night in Sami, before catching a 30 minute ferry to Ithaca the next day.

To add to our difficulties, I could find no bus to take from Zante town to the port, so a 60 euro taxi looked liked the only option. But once we’d landed in Zante I made two key discoveries: starting this week, there were two busses a day from Zante town to the port, to coincide with the two, not one, ferries to Kefalonia – there was also a morning sailing from Zante to Kefalonia but Fotolife some reason this does not show on any electronic ticket booking platform.

Anyway, it was up with the sparrows (6am alarm) for a 30 minute schlep – ladden with our heavy packs – across the habour in Zante town (of course, the bus stop was the other end from where we were satying)

But it was beautiful, serene and calm,

before catching the bus to the port. It was only the two of us on the bus, it was air conditioned and we got to see some of north Zakynthos which looked beautiful, and possibly worthy of a return visit in the future

We arrived in the port ten minutes before our ferry, persuaded the crew to let us use our tickets for the night time sailing, and soon we were on our way to Kefalonia

When we first realised our plans needed to change it was a disappointment, but we enjoyed a simple crossing to a new island (for one night only!) and then had a lovely afternoon in Karavomylos on the outskirts of Sami, ending the day with a picnic on the beach outside our apartment.

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A Pilgrimage to the Past – Day 1 and 2

Zakynthos

33 years ago we had our first holiday together, in Corfu, 30 years ago, on 3rd August 1996, we got married, so this year we are on an Ionian Adventure, a pilgrimage to the past, revisiting many of the Ionian holiday spots we visited in the ‘90s, before children came along an clipped our wings.

First stop Zakinthos, where we last visited 32 years ago in 1994, and didn’t we look young then …

Back then, we stayed in Laganas. Yesterday, we landed in Zakinthos (or Zante) and made our way to our accommodation on the edges of Zante town – now with air con, wi-fi and other mod cons that couldn’t even be dreamed of back then. We’d only ever planned a few days in Zante, and that has been cut shorter due to transport woes (the Lefkada Palace ferry, upon which several legs of our journey had been based, has not been granted a licence to operate this summer, so we need to leave the island a day earlier on a different ferry) and so today is our only full day on the island.

We felt we had to go back and see Laganas as it is now – well renown as a party resort for the youth – so we hopped on a bus and 30 minutes later we got off onto a different planet. In ‘94 it was beginning to get a reputation for cheap booze and loud music and as you walked the strip propers would try and entice you into their club, but now the strip was strewn with rubbish, fast food joints and, worryingly, a couple of emergency treatment rooms. Not the natural habit of two fifty-somethings!

Nevertheless, we had a chilled morning in the Greek sun and heat, walking along the beach – a thin strip of sand, with very shallow sea – enjoying breakfast overlooking the sea and later, a delicious fruit salad in a bar/restaurant and chatting with the owner, she opened in 1993 the year before we first came.

Mid afternoon, we caught the bus back to Zante town and had the first swim of the holiday from a spot we’d spied yesterday – very much a locals swimming spot, not a beach, just a ladder into the sea from some rocks alongside the road. The sea was beautifully clear, amazingly warm (perhaps too warm?) and a delight to be in.

In the day and a half we’ve been here, Zante town has grown on me. Not stunningly beautiful, and a little run down in places, but very calm and relaxed, the food has been wonderful, a great place to leave any UK based troubles behind. And in the evening light and refreshing breeze I was more than happy here.

The pics at the top show two very young hap-pea travellers, this is us now, still smiling, still together, and still in love 30 years and more on

And ready for a whole new Greek adventure, with the occasional detour down memory lane along the way.

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The Sunny Sporades – day 15

Αντίο

And so it was time to leave the sunny Sporades islands. We’ve both loved them – I think we both prefer them to the Cyclades that we travelled last year. They were relaxed, quiet and calm, like the Greece we first discovered 30 years ago. They were pretty, very pretty – blue sky, cobbled streets, white houses, all fringed with verdant green pine forests on the surprisingly high hills inland. And the water was perfect: crystal clear, warm, calm, and deep, I loved every of the many minutes I spent swimming in it.

The ferries were fun, and easy, none of the (organised) chaos to be found in the ports of Paros or Santorini, and it was so worth going beyond Skaithios to Alonossis and Skopelos.

A wonderful two weeks, αντίο και ευχαριστώ

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The Sunny Sporades – day 14

To the beach, by boat

Having done a little scouting mission yesterday, we discovered that the Plakas part of town was charming – old world Greece at its finest, but the beach wasn’t as good as others had suggested, so we decided to head further afield on our one full day on the island. The island boasts a good bus service that runs regularly – and frequently (every 15 mins or so) – along the southern coast to all the beach resorts, but we decided to take the water taxi from the harbour to Achlades beach.

It was a relaxing way to travel – 15 minutes on the boat, 4 euros each (one way), and we were soon stepping of the boat.

After a couple of weeks practice, we are now well drilled at setting up camp on the beach and before long we had claimed “our spot” for the rest of the day …

… and it wasn’t long before I was in the water enjoying, once again, some crystal clear water (although it did seem a tad colder than all the other beaches we had swum from.)

After a full day on the beach, it was time to catch the water taxi back to Skiathos town. (We could have got to the same beach by bus, 2 euros each, one way) but it was fun travelling by boat.)

We ate our last meal at a taverna at the harbour front, watching all the bright young things queuing to board the party boat for a night of drinking, dancing and revelry on the high seas. We wished them well but, feeling our age, we were not inclined to join them.

Choosing, instead, a quiet night of contemplation at a local church (!!!!)

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The Sunny Sporades – day 13

Return to civilization

Both Alonissos and Skopelos have been wonderful, in part because of their quiet, calm nature; they have been the perfect get-away, an escape from the rigours and demands of day to day life, all framed by blue sky, blue sea, and pine forested mountains. Today we left Skopelos, returning to Skiathos, which although smaller than both Alonissos and Skopelos, is very much the “capital” of the Sporades, and it felt like a return to a busier, more noisy, modern world.

We arrived in the afternoon, had a little explore, found a small beach and some pretty streets, but as the sunset and darkness began to fall, the town came to life. It was definitely more “touristy” , which is not necessarily a bad thing. On the previous two islands, I had been more than happy to head home to read and sleep, my belly full after a delicious meal; in Skiathos, however, I was energised by the vibrant bustle around, watching the people parade up and down the main street in their finest going out gear, the water craft plying their trade in the harbour, the music – other than some low key local music, we had heard little on our trip, now “Mamma Mia” was being played by every returning day trip cruise.

We climbed some stairs to a high point (passing a bar on our way) and gazed down on the bright lights of the town below. Welcome to Skiathios, and welcome back to 2025.

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The Sunny Sporades – day 12

Windy!

As forecast, we woke to a howling wind. The sea was crashing in across the harbour and the noise – I can’t adequately describe the sound made by the wind whipping through the rigging of all the yachts that had sought safe harbour in the town’s port. It was like some sort of persistent, demonic, whistling howl, and, with parasols upturned and washing flapping in the wind, it was a apocalyptic scene and sound that greeted us when we tentatively opened the shutters this morning.

It wasn’t a day for the beach, so after a leisurely breakfast we headed out to wander the alleyways of the town, discovering bits of Skopelos that we hadn’t yet seen. Despite the wind, the sun was warm and it was a pleasant few hours ambling around, before stopping for a gyros for lunch in the town square – delicious!

The wind was still blowing, so we headed back to our apartment and enjoyed the luxury of our outside space, somewhat sheltered from the fiercest wind, which as the afternoon wore on, began to abate. By mid to late afternoon the sea was calming, and the wind little more than a stiff, cooling breeze. Some of the morning’s ferries had been cancelled, so it was pleasing (as ever!) to see the Seajets Speedrunner Jet arrive and depart, indicating that, after a day of excitement normality was returning to our little piece of paradise.

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The sunny Sporades – day 11

Hot!

We had commented earlier in the week that the climate and temperature had been very pleasant – warm and sunny at all times, but nor stiflingly hot like we have remembered from previous travels. But yesterday there was a sense that the weather was changing – getting warmer – and we woke today to find it hot, very hot!

For most of this trip the day time temperature has been in the high twenties, but by today it had soared into the low to mid-thirties and, at this temperature, it does get uncomfortable, unless you do something about it. Our solution – hop on the bus to Agnontas and enjoy the refreshing allure of the sea whenever we needed it (which was pretty often!)

Having been up early yesterday morning for our trip, we had a lazier start today, not making it to the beach until midday, but then we decided to stay longer, enjoying a meal on the beach before getting the bus back home.

As we sat looking out to sea, enjoying the last of the evening sun, we did spot a few clouds which herald a forecast change to the weather again tomorrow – temperatures in the high twenties, accompanied by strong winds in the morning. But the sun will still be shinning!

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The Sunny Sporades – day 10

Mamma Mia!

Even if you are not a fan (Becky is, I’ve seen it, enjoyed it, but wouldn’t call myself a fan) if you find yourself on Skopelos you probably should take a pilgrimage to Agios Ioannis Chapel, aka the church on the rock made famous in the film Mamma Mia. We booked a mini-bus tour from Skopelos Travel for 35 euros each, to include taking us to the chapel for about an hour, then taking us to a “Mamma Mia beach” – Kastani beach – for four hours.

It was worth it. I like to think we would have gone to the church even if Mamma Mia had never existed. It looked stunning set on a rocky outcrop and even climbing the two hundred steps to the top was not as tough as I feared. It reminded me of one or two of the remote churches we encountered on out Greek Odysessy across the Cyclades last year. A small church sat in a wonderful location, whatever your beliefs, or none, it was a place to think and reflect, and take in the natural beauty of the world around us.

The inside of the church was tiny (it was not used in the film); I did like the stained glass window.

After an hour at the site (more than enough – if visiting independently, I’d budget for 45 – 60 mins) it was back on the bus to Kastani beach, where the famous “flipper” scene was filmed on the pontoon stretching out from the beach into the sea. The pontoon doesn’t actually exist, it was made especially for the film (based on the smaller version at Agnontas beach that we saw yesterday.

The beach was busy and crowded, pulled by the draw of beautiful water, but more likely it’s Mamma Mia fame. We turned left and scrambled over some rocks to find ourselves a shady spot overlook the most beautiful clear blue water. I couldn’t wait to get in.

On this whole trip, the water, and the swimming, has been fantastic throughout, but I think the sea today topped all others. I just can adequately describe the colour and clarity of the water. I spent a long time in it!

The water was lovely, but we probably won’t return to Kanstani beach – in areas it was busy, with loud thumping music – we are clearly ageing, this wasn’t for us (although glad we went).

Another great day, I will watch the film again when we get home so I can pick out those spots we’ve now seen.

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The Sunny Sporades – day 9

Goats, swifts and moles

Today was another beach by bus day, and we went to the closer beach of Agnontas, a quick 15 minute, 2 euro (each way) bus hop across the base of the island. We set up camp at the fare end of the small beach, overlooked by a rather menacing and defiant goat and their three kids

I must confess as I took my first swim if the day, along the cliff that fringed the beach, and I explored a sea cave directly beneath momma goat, I was doing some mental calculations and reaching the conclusion that whilst, on land, I would come a very poor second to the goat, in the unlucky event that it did venture into the water I reckoned I could probably out swim it, so carried on enjoying the clear blue water.

The beach was lovely – not as big as Panormos the day before, and so it felt slightly more crowded, we both said we preferred it to the previous day’s beach.

Our umbrella has been a must, providing us with much needed shade, and our chairs a comfortable addition to this year’s travels that will probably now accompany us on all of our trips.

The evening found us back in Skopelos town and we spent a wonderful minutes watching the swifts whirl and screech in the evening sunlight. Whilst not quite the masses we witnessed four years ago in Corfu town, they are majestic to watch as the spin through the sky, seeking out their supper of insects whilst still on the wing.

And then we thought of our supper, to, and decided on this taverna:

I love the Greek lettering, and was curious as to its name so used the magic of Google translate to discover …

means “Moles”. It was a good choice, the food was delicious, the setting (and company) beautiful and, as Becky reminded me, its the detail that is important.

Our only regret is that we didn’t have the fried zucchini as a starter, and rued our decision when we saw what arrived when other diners had chosen it. Not to worry, we’ll amend that error with return visit to “Moles” later in the week.