A Pilgrimage to the Past – Ithaca

Ithaca

We’d pre-booked a hire car on our next island – Ithaca – as public transport was limited, and we collected our car at the ferry port of Pisaetos and we drove for about 30 minutes to Vathy, our home on the island.

Our apartment was possibly the best of our whole trip, spacious, comfortable, and well appointed

and everyday we enjoyed breakfast of Greek yoghurt and fruit outside in our private patio garden.

We used the car to explore (after an initial bit of stress when google maps sent us up a very narrow, steep street to nowhere!)

and our first outing was to Sarakinko beach, which ended up being my favourite on Ithaca (and not because it was an easy 10 minute drive from Vathy with easy parking!)

On our second full day we headed to the north of the island, driving for about an hour to Kioni

It was pretty, but yachty, and, despite finding a nice quite beach, we agreed we made the right decision not to have stayed here

On our return, we stopped for a drink and snack at Frikes – a very pleasant one horse port town that we would return to on our departure from the island

and then headed up to the highest point on the island, and visited the Monestry of Katharon

The views were magnificent

and worth the dangers of the drive, which weren’t just the 180 degree switchbacks, but sharing the road with goats

and Becky forever wanting to stop and get out of the car to get the perfect pic (to be fair, the road itself was wide and well tarmaced, not the worst to drive on.)

Closer to home, we also visited Filiatro beach, another gem

and then it was another early morning departure – a 7am taxi from Vathy to Frikes to catch the ferry back to Kefalonia. As is our style, we left early, which meant we had an hour or so sat on a bench drinking coffee and eating cakes for breakfast, overlooking the calm habour. It was beautiful and peaceful, and a shame to leave the island for Fiskardo on Kefalonia

A Pilgrimage to the Past – Kefalonia (part 1)

Kefalonia part 1

We arrived from Zante to the southern Kefalonian port of Passada and took a pre-booked taxi to Sami: all part of our re-arranged plans due to the Lefkada Palace not sailing this season. The taxi ride reminded me how mountainous the island is, and how difficult it can be to get around. Any, after a journey of about 50 minutes we arrived at our accommodation for the night. We were at the far north end of Sami bay, probably more in Karavomylos than Sami.

Our room overlooked this wonderfully peaceful beach

and we walked into town – it was further than we thought, and initially we walked on the road, which was brutally hot with the heat radiating up from the tarmac, and not very scenic. We sensibly ignored google maps, headed down to the beach, and continued along the water front – much more pleasant.

although by our return the wind had picked up and the calm sea had become a little choppy

We had a picnic tea on a beach (almost) all to ourselves, and chilled in the evening glow

When we woke in the morning the calm had returned,

had coffee and pastries from a local bakery on our balcony, watching the fledging swallows rest on the wire after their first faltering flights,

before settling on the beach for a few happy, relaxed hours before catching an afternoon ferry to our next island, Ithaca. We did, very sensibly, take a taxi from our room to the port – ten euros well spent!

Our stay had been calming and relaxing, the views stunning, the sea a little cold as it was fed by water from the mountains, but we’d both happily return to the same spot.