Tag: capri

Capri, part due.

Up, not quite with the larks, but promptly so that we could make the most of our second, and final, day on Capri. First stop, a baggage drop shop on the harbour front to deposit our two rucksacks (4 euros each for the day) and then straight to the funicular – with no queues – for a short whizz up to Capri.

Capri, as an island, is beautiful, but you pay the price in your pocket. We hunted around in Capri town and eventually found a cafe for breakfast were a coffee was a mere 5 euros!

We then just wandered the narrow streets, marvelling at both the beautiful view but also the super thin electric porter trucks.

We ambled on westwards, out of the town, following a path/road and soaking in scenic view after scenic view, only deciding to sop and retrace our steps when the path took a significant downward turn – after our ascents of yesterday, we had no stomach for any more hill climbs, and if you go down, you must, at some point, come back up.

We found a cafe with palatable prices and a stunning view

Rested and refreshed, we continued back into Capri town, were we stumbled upon the Giardini Augusto

and for 2.50 euros each we were treated to wonderful planting (its early April here, the temperature and flowers make it feel like late May back in the UK)

and some stunning views of the Capri coastline.

On an island where money rules, you think of a price, double it and then double it again, these gardens were an absolute bargain. Not big or expansive, but for a little loose change the views were spectacular – not as good as from the top of the cable car, but in the same league.

We then headed back down to the Marina Grande, sat on the beach and soaked up a mixture of sun and shade (plus the odd paddle) for a couple of hours

before catching the ferry for the 30 minute hop to Sorrento.

I loved Capri – despite the obvious price gouging – it was beautiful and you could step far enough away from the crowds to gain a little serenity too. If you are reading this because you are thinking of going to Capri I would suggest you go, and if you do go, you must, must, must go up the cable car/chair lift at Ana Capri, and I would highly recommend the Giardini Augusto. Other than that, just wander and enjoy.

^^^ Our new “home” in Sorrento for the next two nights.

A Belinda day

I’m not a religious or very spiritual man, perhaps the one thing I believe in was Belinda Carlise when she sang “True heaven is a place on earth” and today was one of those days that confirmed that belief.

We were up early to catch the 8.30 ferry from Salerno to Capri and some two hours later, having taken in Minori, Amalfi and Positano, Capri hoved into view.

The one “bucket list” item that I wanted to do on this trip was to take the famed chair lift, so having dropped our bags in our new apartment, we headed back into the harbour with the intention of heading to AnaCapri and the chairlift.

Like most places on our trip so far, the harbour was super busy with fellow tourists all trying to head inland and so a combination of long queues for the busses, some mis-remembered memories from 10 years ago, and a cavalier attitude and lack of research prior to travelling saw us decide to walk up to Ana Capri. Even though when we neared the top we were treated to some stunning views, and (again as we levelled out at the top) I gained some perverse satisfaction from the climb, it was a mistake to walk the in excess of 900 steps, rising over 1,000 feet from our sea level start.

But exhausted, hot and sweaty we did make to the top (for now!), had a drink to recoup, wandered around the small town, and then had some lunch before heading to the cable car station for the ride to the real summit. The queue was not long, the cost was 15 euros each for a return, and the journey time about 10 minutes each way. The journey was serene and scenic – in no way frightening or adrenaline inducing – but as we neared the top cloud begin to swirl in and, as we stepped off the chairlift the promised wonderful view was obscured by the cloud we were in.

Disappointed, we circled the summit; on one side the sky was clear, affording views across to Vesuvius and Napoli, but the other side remained cloaked in grey obscurity.

With no return ferry to catch, or other commitment calling us, we waited, and began to see the odd glimpse of the sea below as the cloud, temporarily, thinned. And we waited some more, and then a little longer, and eventually our patience was rewarded as the cloud shifted, revealing the island in its true beauty.

It was stunningly beautiful, with panoramic views back towards the Amalfi coast and Salerno, cloud skitting across the hills behind Sorrento, Naploli stretching out across the water to the north and Vesuvius rising majestically into the sky, ringed by a layer of cloud lower down, but it’s crown dominating the vista. It was beautiful, and Belinda is right: true heaven is a place on earth and I was in it.

Eventually we tore ourselves away, took the chair lift down and then a very crowded small bus back to the Marina Grande were I treated my aching feet to a refreshing paddle in crystal clear waters.

The only downside to the day was the prices on the harbour front. Deciding we deserved some refreshment, we sat at a cafe and ordered a couple of beers – one small, on medium, Birra Moretti – a nice beer, but nothing fancy – and were shocked that the bill came to 20.50 euros! After finding the cheapest place to buy a couple of pizzas (plastic cutlery and paper plates!) we had a stroll back along the beachfront in the dusky light. With most ferries having left, taking with them there passengers, a calm descended over the harbour front and we marvelled again at the magnificent views.