A Greek Odyssey – day 22

Thunder, but no wind

Thunder approaches!

Today we moved on from Antiparos (via Paros) to our next (and final ) island destination of Syros. Our ship for the journey was Fast Ferries “Thunder” – a magnificent vessel that took us swiftly and smoothly to our new home in less than two hours, including a stop to download and upload more passengers on Mykonos.

As ever, boarding was controlled mayhem – Paros as a port is busy, busy, busy (having arrived in the port about two hours before we were due to sail, we sat in a waterfront taverna for brunch, and I thoroughly enjoyed myself watching a fleet of ferries arrive and depart. When it was our turn to board we now know what to expect, strap on our packs, join the queue and head up the ramp when directed to do so. It is a great way to travel.

As one Blue Star Ferries ship departed, another arrived!

Ever since we landed in Santorini, a fairly stiff breeze has blown – good for making the heat bearable, not so good for stirring up the sea. Today, though, for the first time in three weeks there has been no wind. That made our crossing super smooth, with the sea as calm as a mill-pond, but it did mean that when we docked in Syros it was hot, hot, hot. After checking in to our apartment, we eventually dragged ourselves away from the air conditioning and went to explore the town – for 2 nights we are staying in the port/capital Ermoupoli, before we cross the island for our final five days. Bigger, and not so tourist dependent than anywhere else we have been, it is a pretty town, but with an architecture more Venetian than the whitewashed Greek houses we have encountered so far.

In the evening, at 7.30pm, we caught the free “mini bus” (mini because the journey is small, not the size of the bus) up to Ano Syros – a town on the hill overlooking the capital. I think everyone else had the same idea as the bus was packed (good job it wasn’t a minibus as we think of them) but after 10 minutes of standing we de-bussed in Ano Syros. But this wasn’t the end of the trip – we then had stairs, lots and lots of stone stairs to climb to the top and visit the classic cathedral atop the hill. If I’m honest, Ano Syros, and its cathedral are probably better seen from afar – when you are in the cramped, cobbled streets you can’t really see to appreciate its beauty. But as we descended from the top, we did see a magnificent view across the domed roof of another church, looking out to the calm sea, and surrounding islands, in the late evening haze. It was beautiful.

Rather than play sardines in the bus to come down the hill, we decided to walk back to our apartment – circa 15 minutes, all downhill, but some of the stairs were punishing on ageing knees! As the sun had set, the temperature had dropped to a manageable level and before long we were back in our apartment, wondering where the day (and night) had gone.