Sintra (in the rain)
The weather forecast for the day was not good, and, sadly, it lived up to its predications. We decided that, despite the weather, we would go to Sintra for the day – about 50 mins from Lisbon on the train – a tourist “must see” when you spend time in Lisbon.
Lisbon’s public transport network is extensive, cheap, and easy to use. We took a 10 minute metro ride to the Rossio district, where we boarded a train to take us to Sintra, I always like travelling by train, these were on time, clean and effective, and we were afforded glances of the fairy tale Pena Palace sat high on the hill overlooking the town as we approached.
On disembarking from the train, we first encountered a sea of guides offering to whisk us up to the palace and castle, but we ignored them as, in true hap-pea traveller style, we were going to take the bus. But before we had even left the station, the clouds descended, totally enveloping the castle on the cliff, and then the heavens opened.
We decided instead – umbrellas raised – to walk into the historic centre.
Along the way (a flat, level pavement) we encountered a number of sculptures to pique our interest.
If I’m honest, Sintra was a bit of a disappointment. Rammed with tourists (mea culpa – we were part of the problem too), and not much to it, although pretty enough, really just a disneyfied tourist trap, not somewhere I would rave about, or recommend. Now, I may have had a different opinion had it been a glorious day, and we’d gone up to see the palace with a back drop of blue sky, but I suspect the magic would have been dissipated by the volume of tourists. One of the things I have loved about Lisbon has been its authenticity – its not pristine and perfect, a little grubby in places, and faded around the edges but that gives it its real world charm, it is a working city, whereas I think Sintra now exists solely for the tourist.
But a slightly disappointing day was hugely improved by a magnificent meal back in town, at an authentic Italian restaurant round the corner from our apartment. The setting was lovely (thinking – hoping- that the rain had passed, we elected to eat outside, a good choice) the food fantastic, and a melody of ’80s hits a welcome relief from the dirge like Fado music that had accompanied our dining experience on the previous two evenings. And great value too, we had pistachio nuts and bread to start, Becky enjoyed a pizza, I demolished a delicious pasta bolognaise, we share a tiramisu, had two beers and two coffees all for less than 50 euros.