A Belinda day
I’m not a religious or very spiritual man, perhaps the one thing I believe in was Belinda Carlise when she sang “True heaven is a place on earth” and today was one of those days that confirmed that belief.
We were up early to catch the 8.30 ferry from Salerno to Capri and some two hours later, having taken in Minori, Amalfi and Positano, Capri hoved into view.
The one “bucket list” item that I wanted to do on this trip was to take the famed chair lift, so having dropped our bags in our new apartment, we headed back into the harbour with the intention of heading to AnaCapri and the chairlift.
Like most places on our trip so far, the harbour was super busy with fellow tourists all trying to head inland and so a combination of long queues for the busses, some mis-remembered memories from 10 years ago, and a cavalier attitude and lack of research prior to travelling saw us decide to walk up to Ana Capri. Even though when we neared the top we were treated to some stunning views, and (again as we levelled out at the top) I gained some perverse satisfaction from the climb, it was a mistake to walk the in excess of 900 steps, rising over 1,000 feet from our sea level start.
But exhausted, hot and sweaty we did make to the top (for now!), had a drink to recoup, wandered around the small town, and then had some lunch before heading to the cable car station for the ride to the real summit. The queue was not long, the cost was 15 euros each for a return, and the journey time about 10 minutes each way. The journey was serene and scenic – in no way frightening or adrenaline inducing – but as we neared the top cloud begin to swirl in and, as we stepped off the chairlift the promised wonderful view was obscured by the cloud we were in.
Disappointed, we circled the summit; on one side the sky was clear, affording views across to Vesuvius and Napoli, but the other side remained cloaked in grey obscurity.
With no return ferry to catch, or other commitment calling us, we waited, and began to see the odd glimpse of the sea below as the cloud, temporarily, thinned. And we waited some more, and then a little longer, and eventually our patience was rewarded as the cloud shifted, revealing the island in its true beauty.
It was stunningly beautiful, with panoramic views back towards the Amalfi coast and Salerno, cloud skitting across the hills behind Sorrento, Naploli stretching out across the water to the north and Vesuvius rising majestically into the sky, ringed by a layer of cloud lower down, but it’s crown dominating the vista. It was beautiful, and Belinda is right: true heaven is a place on earth and I was in it.
Eventually we tore ourselves away, took the chair lift down and then a very crowded small bus back to the Marina Grande were I treated my aching feet to a refreshing paddle in crystal clear waters.
The only downside to the day was the prices on the harbour front. Deciding we deserved some refreshment, we sat at a cafe and ordered a couple of beers – one small, on medium, Birra Moretti – a nice beer, but nothing fancy – and were shocked that the bill came to 20.50 euros! After finding the cheapest place to buy a couple of pizzas (plastic cutlery and paper plates!) we had a stroll back along the beachfront in the dusky light. With most ferries having left, taking with them there passengers, a calm descended over the harbour front and we marvelled again at the magnificent views.
