We had commented earlier in the week that the climate and temperature had been very pleasant – warm and sunny at all times, but nor stiflingly hot like we have remembered from previous travels. But yesterday there was a sense that the weather was changing – getting warmer – and we woke today to find it hot, very hot!
For most of this trip the day time temperature has been in the high twenties, but by today it had soared into the low to mid-thirties and, at this temperature, it does get uncomfortable, unless you do something about it. Our solution – hop on the bus to Agnontas and enjoy the refreshing allure of the sea whenever we needed it (which was pretty often!)
Having been up early yesterday morning for our trip, we had a lazier start today, not making it to the beach until midday, but then we decided to stay longer, enjoying a meal on the beach before getting the bus back home.
As we sat looking out to sea, enjoying the last of the evening sun, we did spot a few clouds which herald a forecast change to the weather again tomorrow – temperatures in the high twenties, accompanied by strong winds in the morning. But the sun will still be shinning!
Even if you are not a fan (Becky is, I’ve seen it, enjoyed it, but wouldn’t call myself a fan) if you find yourself on Skopelos you probably should take a pilgrimage to Agios Ioannis Chapel, aka the church on the rock made famous in the film Mamma Mia. We booked a mini-bus tour from Skopelos Travel for 35 euros each, to include taking us to the chapel for about an hour, then taking us to a “Mamma Mia beach” – Kastani beach – for four hours.
It was worth it. I like to think we would have gone to the church even if Mamma Mia had never existed. It looked stunning set on a rocky outcrop and even climbing the two hundred steps to the top was not as tough as I feared. It reminded me of one or two of the remote churches we encountered on out Greek Odysessy across the Cyclades last year. A small church sat in a wonderful location, whatever your beliefs, or none, it was a place to think and reflect, and take in the natural beauty of the world around us.
The inside of the church was tiny (it was not used in the film); I did like the stained glass window.
After an hour at the site (more than enough – if visiting independently, I’d budget for 45 – 60 mins) it was back on the bus to Kastani beach, where the famous “flipper” scene was filmed on the pontoon stretching out from the beach into the sea. The pontoon doesn’t actually exist, it was made especially for the film (based on the smaller version at Agnontas beach that we saw yesterday.
The beach was busy and crowded, pulled by the draw of beautiful water, but more likely it’s Mamma Mia fame. We turned left and scrambled over some rocks to find ourselves a shady spot overlook the most beautiful clear blue water. I couldn’t wait to get in.
On this whole trip, the water, and the swimming, has been fantastic throughout, but I think the sea today topped all others. I just can adequately describe the colour and clarity of the water. I spent a long time in it!
The water was lovely, but we probably won’t return to Kanstani beach – in areas it was busy, with loud thumping music – we are clearly ageing, this wasn’t for us (although glad we went).
Another great day, I will watch the film again when we get home so I can pick out those spots we’ve now seen.
Today was another beach by bus day, and we went to the closer beach of Agnontas, a quick 15 minute, 2 euro (each way) bus hop across the base of the island. We set up camp at the fare end of the small beach, overlooked by a rather menacing and defiant goat and their three kids
I must confess as I took my first swim if the day, along the cliff that fringed the beach, and I explored a sea cave directly beneath momma goat, I was doing some mental calculations and reaching the conclusion that whilst, on land, I would come a very poor second to the goat, in the unlucky event that it did venture into the water I reckoned I could probably out swim it, so carried on enjoying the clear blue water.
The beach was lovely – not as big as Panormos the day before, and so it felt slightly more crowded, we both said we preferred it to the previous day’s beach.
Our umbrella has been a must, providing us with much needed shade, and our chairs a comfortable addition to this year’s travels that will probably now accompany us on all of our trips.
The evening found us back in Skopelos town and we spent a wonderful minutes watching the swifts whirl and screech in the evening sunlight. Whilst not quite the masses we witnessed four years ago in Corfu town, they are majestic to watch as the spin through the sky, seeking out their supper of insects whilst still on the wing.
And then we thought of our supper, to, and decided on this taverna:
I love the Greek lettering, and was curious as to its name so used the magic of Google translate to discover …
means “Moles”. It was a good choice, the food was delicious, the setting (and company) beautiful and, as Becky reminded me, its the detail that is important.
Our only regret is that we didn’t have the fried zucchini as a starter, and rued our decision when we saw what arrived when other diners had chosen it. Not to worry, we’ll amend that error with return visit to “Moles” later in the week.
We arrived on Skopelos yesterday afternoon and climbed our way up lots and lots (89 to be precise) stone steps to our home for the week, but it was worth it – a great two floor appartment, with a fantastic view out over the habour, and swifts screeching and swirling above our heads. We explored the labyrinth of cobbled streets, got lost more than once, before enjoying a delicious meal (is there any Greek meal that isn’t delicious?!) one street back from the front, elvated and looking down on the bustling street below. Skopelos is not big, loud and bright, but it certainly is more busier and more “commercial” than Alonissos. It is pretty, charming and delightful.
Today we took the bus to the nearby beach of Panormos.
There is essentially one bus route on the island, that starts in Skopelos town, heads across to the South West corner of the island, and then wends itself up the west coast to Glossa, before heading back again.
The busses are quite frequent, but with a few odd “blind spots” – nothing in the 9 o’clock, or the same for the return – nothing in the 5 oclocks – you buy your ticket before boarding (although you can pay on the bus) the cheapest fare is 2 euros, ranging to 4 euros for Glossa. We went halfway up the island and paid 3 euro each, each way. It was a bit of a scrum getting on the 10.30 am bus, we snagged seats, but not all did, and after the first stip it started to thin out and we enjoyed the 30 minute air conditioned ride to the beach resort of Panormos.
It was a pretty, shingle, beach in a bay with wonderfully clear water that got deep very, very quickly. (For me this is a plus, I love swimming in deep clear water, feeling the infinity of water below me supporting me as I glide and bob across the surface. Becky disagrees, spending her time imagining creatures from the deep all set to swim up and feast on her flesh. I had a lovely day spent swimming, Becky enjoyed sitting in the cooling shallows, watching the world go by, waiting for me to be dragged under to a watery grave!)
In the evening, having enjoyed a Gyros plate in a town square taverna (pictured above), we wondered the streets as darkness fell. The seafront was busy and bustling, but not loud or intimidating.
At the end of the seafront, we saw some stairs, so had to climb them …
because Becky remembered something “about a donkey” So like the pack animal I so often am on holiday, I laboured my way up, and up and up some more stairs …
(… to be fair, pausing at a pretty little whites washed church and soaking in the scenery below) until we saw …
The Donkey!
Apparently it’s a thing in Skopelos, but it was just a bar full of beautiful young people and loud music – with my aching legs I felt old and out of place so ambled back down the hill to our apartment and chilled in quite, calm darkness of our balcony, another day well spent.
Corfu and Kefalonia, Sifnos and Syros: at some point you have all held the number one spot in my heart as my favourite Greek island, but after a week on Alonissos you have all been knocked of that perch.
Alonissos has been wonderful, my new favourite Greek island. It is pretty with the green pine trees that were missing from the Cyclades, the swimming has been superb – crystal clear water from stone or shingle beach (contrary to popular opinion, neither Becky nor I are fans of sandy beaches), its had enough to keep one interested, but no so busy it feels overcrowded. It has been “authentically” Greek, with friendly people and delicious food. As we sat munching cakes and coffee at our favourite bakery for breakfast, Becky commented that we haven’t heard blaring music once during our holiday; we must be getting old as we increasingly seek peace and tranquillity as hallmarks of a good trip!
As I write, we await the mid-day(ish) arrival of this ferry (Seajets Superstar) to take us on a thirty minute journey to Skopelos, and begin the next phase of our Sporades adventure.
Today we went for a day out to Kokkinokastro, a beach about 15 minutes up the south-east coast of the island. There are not many bus routes on Alonissos – a few up to the Chora, and then two to Steni Vale, but not ’til 2pm – but there is a company – Aqua travel – that run a trip to a different beach each day of the week. We chose Kokkinokastro as we were told it was pretty – it was, the swimming was good – it was, and it was quiet – it was. It was 6.50 euros each for the round trip, picking up at 10.15, and departing the beach at 4pm
It was very pretty, the beach pebbly (which we like) and the water crystal clear and soon got deep enough to have you out of your depth. One section of the beach was “organised”, and there was a small beach bar, which we didn’t use as we set up camp further along the beach and I was to chilled to make the short walk across the stony shore.
We headed home, showered and headed back out ready for an evening of dance! We had seen signs for Alonissos festival of dance, on the 4th – 6th July, and our (very) limited Greek, coupled with google translate and talking with a taverna owner earlier in the week suggested that the festivities would start at 8pm. We found a table in taverna with a good view of the stage that had been erected, and watch in growing anticipation as circles and numbers were chalked onto the road in front of by the organisers.
By 8.15, we saw some costumed dancers walking into town, but still now sign of action. By 8.30 we could make our meal last no longer, so paid up and went to find a wall near the stage to stand and watch. Eventually, at 9.30 (ish!) the dancers paraded down the main road from the port, and then began dancing on the street behind us, directly in front of where we had been sat. Then, though, the main event began and the all processed, whilst dancing, onto the stage in front of us.
It is hard to estimate how many dancers there were, but would guess circa a thousand, and it took over half an hour for them all to make their way onto, and then off, the stage, all the while dancing to live music. It was a magnificent spectacle, and a privilege to witness and watch.
To plan, or not to plan, that is the dilemma we have faced. Earlier in the week, we sketched out a rough plan of what we would do each day whilst here on Alonnisos, but on Monday we were hungry and didn’t want to wait for the evening bus to the Chora, so we changed that plan. On Wednesday, we loved our day on the local town beach, so changed plans again and went back there today.
Its good to have some idea of what you are going to do on your travels, but those plans don’t need to be set in stone. Its only taken a couple of days and we are already operating on “Greek time” – taking things slow, and letting the world wash over you, like the clear, refreshing Aegean sea.
Lunch was simple: bread, breadsticks, fruit and veg picked up fresh that morning, the day was spent reading, swimming or just staring into the vast blue yonder. What plan could better that?
And this evening we did make it back up to the Chora, and enjoyed a wonderful meal, in a lovely – yet not twee – taverna with magnificent sweeping views out to sea. With the vibrant hues of a the setting sun providing the canvas as we awaited the bus for the ten-minute trip back down the hill, it was the perfect and picturesque end to an unplanned day.
Over the years, we’ve come to learn that shade is a vital commodity on the beach and would typically buy a beach umbrella when we first arrived in country, use it for our holidays, before leaving it behind in our accommodation, hoping that the next occupants may use it.
For our last few trips, however, we have taken our umbrella with us, packed in the bag along with my rucksack for the flight (although this does mean it needs to go in oversize luggage with the added risk it doesn’t make it smoothly to your destination as happened on our flight here ) Today, loaded up like a pack horse with normal beach stuff, plus the umbrella, and a couple of chairs, we headed of to the town beach for the day.
It is a beach that has captured my heart …
but was a stoney beach and, with a bit of a breeze, some serious engineering was needed to secure the umbrella. A couple of years ago, we bought a “screw in anchor” for the umbrella pole – great for sandy beaches, less so for stone, so some excavation to place to bury this as far as possible (not far!) and then build a base of rocks up around it. But my real achievement came three weeks ago one Sunday morning back in England. Thinking ahead, I used jubilee clips and plastic tie wraps to create a couple of loops on the poles – we took a reel of ribbon with us on holiday and were able to create guy ropes for the umbrella, secured by a couple of big rocks. As the wind got up, the umbrella fluttered in the breeze but stayed anchored in spot all day. I must say, I was rather pleased with (and rather enjoyed) my civil engineering first thing in the morning!
Chuffed with my efforts, I went for a swim in the clear waters. Whilst I explored the bay, Becky built a tower of stones …
Having been bitten by the engineering bug, I thought I, too, could build my own tower, so I did …
With gyros on the beach for a (late) lunch, it was a lovely chilled day on the beach
before ambling back through town – stopping for coffee and ice cream – on our way back to the apartment. A shower later, we headed back into town for a meal and as we returned to our room for the final time we (well, I) took the opportunity to get up close and personal with a Seajets ferry docked up overnight.
This morning we took the bus from the port/harbour (Patitiri) up to the old town, or Chora, (or Hora depending on how you want to turn your Greek into English. My Greek remains limited to a few very basic works, but I am starting to make an effort to at least look at words written in Greek and think how they might be written in the English alphabet, but I digress.)
A ten minute, and 1.80 euro each, bus ride from “town” delivered us to the Chora to be rewarded with magnificent sea views and a charming village of old buildings and cobbled streets tumbling through the town. We spotted a swallows nest, with youngsters big enough soon to fly the nest – perhaps an apt metaphor as we find out tomorrow what our youngest has scored in his final exams and his degree classification.
For all its charm an beauty, the Chora has been touched by tragedy. In 1965 it was hit by an earthquake, with many inhabitants forced to live in tents for two years before being made to move down to the port of Patitri. Life – and residents – have returned to the Chora, but we saw more than one dilapidated building for sale, and one begins to dream ….
More poignantly, we encountered a memorial to 9 citizens of Alonnisos that were put to death in the second world war, an important reminder of man’s inhumanity to man, and must not be forgotten.
The busses to and from the Chora are not frequent, so we walked back to Patitiri down the old donkey path, a wide cobbled path that wound its way down through the countryside. It was a pleasant “amble”, if somewhat hot, and after about 30 mins we stumbled back into town and rewarded ourselves with our first gyros of the trip.
And then we found a new swimming spot. Not the easiest to access, and all surrounded by rock, but there was a ladder to allow you to get into and out of the water. (Although, of course, I found an alternative way into the water …)
Swimming in the infinity of the deep blue sea, surrounded by pine clad cliffs, I was in heaven.
Our first full day in Greece and after a quick swim in “our” pool (our apartment block is owned by the owner of the small hotel opposite, and we have full use of their pool)
we headed, via a bakery for breakfast, to the beach on the inlet parallel to the harbour (we are staying on the top, between the two). As the crow-files, possibly less than 100 metres, but the geography of the island dictated a 10 to 15 minute walk, past some sunflowers
but it was so worth it.
The beach was not big, perhaps 100m wide (?), largely organised (ie covered with sunbeds – 15 euros for a pair and umbrella – and some tavernas, bars and mini-market fringing the beach) but with un-organised space at either end. We found ourselves a rocky jetty to settle down on, and before long I was in the water. It was/is the perfect swimming spot – easy to get in and out, the water crystal clear, getting deep quickly and the cove extended outwards for a couple of hundred metres, flanked by rocky cliffs, topped with green pine trees full of “singing” cicadas. For me, it was perfect.
I found a rock to dive off, and spent quite some time swimming in this idyllic spot. It wasn’t just the perfect water, the surrounding scenery was serene, I loved bobbing around in the water and looking up at the roots of this pine tree, exposed, no do doubt, by some rock fall.
And then, with a loud hoot, a Seajets ferry hoved into view, heading for port in the adjacent harbour: my holy trinity was scored – Sea, sun and Seajet ferries.
We enjoyed a late lunch on the seafront ,
before heading back up the hill, happy and contented after a full dose of Greek medicine. A perfect way to start our latest Greek adventure.
