And so it was time to leave the sunny Sporades islands. We’ve both loved them – I think we both prefer them to the Cyclades that we travelled last year. They were relaxed, quiet and calm, like the Greece we first discovered 30 years ago. They were pretty, very pretty – blue sky, cobbled streets, white houses, all fringed with verdant green pine forests on the surprisingly high hills inland. And the water was perfect: crystal clear, warm, calm, and deep, I loved every of the many minutes I spent swimming in it.
The ferries were fun, and easy, none of the (organised) chaos to be found in the ports of Paros or Santorini, and it was so worth going beyond Skaithios to Alonossis and Skopelos.
Having done a little scouting mission yesterday, we discovered that the Plakas part of town was charming – old world Greece at its finest, but the beach wasn’t as good as others had suggested, so we decided to head further afield on our one full day on the island. The island boasts a good bus service that runs regularly – and frequently (every 15 mins or so) – along the southern coast to all the beach resorts, but we decided to take the water taxi from the harbour to Achlades beach.
It was a relaxing way to travel – 15 minutes on the boat, 4 euros each (one way), and we were soon stepping of the boat.
After a couple of weeks practice, we are now well drilled at setting up camp on the beach and before long we had claimed “our spot” for the rest of the day …
… and it wasn’t long before I was in the water enjoying, once again, some crystal clear water (although it did seem a tad colder than all the other beaches we had swum from.)
After a full day on the beach, it was time to catch the water taxi back to Skiathos town. (We could have got to the same beach by bus, 2 euros each, one way) but it was fun travelling by boat.)
We ate our last meal at a taverna at the harbour front, watching all the bright young things queuing to board the party boat for a night of drinking, dancing and revelry on the high seas. We wished them well but, feeling our age, we were not inclined to join them.
Choosing, instead, a quiet night of contemplation at a local church (!!!!)
Both Alonissos and Skopelos have been wonderful, in part because of their quiet, calm nature; they have been the perfect get-away, an escape from the rigours and demands of day to day life, all framed by blue sky, blue sea, and pine forested mountains. Today we left Skopelos, returning to Skiathos, which although smaller than both Alonissos and Skopelos, is very much the “capital” of the Sporades, and it felt like a return to a busier, more noisy, modern world.
We arrived in the afternoon, had a little explore, found a small beach and some pretty streets, but as the sunset and darkness began to fall, the town came to life. It was definitely more “touristy” , which is not necessarily a bad thing. On the previous two islands, I had been more than happy to head home to read and sleep, my belly full after a delicious meal; in Skiathos, however, I was energised by the vibrant bustle around, watching the people parade up and down the main street in their finest going out gear, the water craft plying their trade in the harbour, the music – other than some low key local music, we had heard little on our trip, now “Mamma Mia” was being played by every returning day trip cruise.
We climbed some stairs to a high point (passing a bar on our way) and gazed down on the bright lights of the town below. Welcome to Skiathios, and welcome back to 2025.
As forecast, we woke to a howling wind. The sea was crashing in across the harbour and the noise – I can’t adequately describe the sound made by the wind whipping through the rigging of all the yachts that had sought safe harbour in the town’s port. It was like some sort of persistent, demonic, whistling howl, and, with parasols upturned and washing flapping in the wind, it was a apocalyptic scene and sound that greeted us when we tentatively opened the shutters this morning.
It wasn’t a day for the beach, so after a leisurely breakfast we headed out to wander the alleyways of the town, discovering bits of Skopelos that we hadn’t yet seen. Despite the wind, the sun was warm and it was a pleasant few hours ambling around, before stopping for a gyros for lunch in the town square – delicious!
The wind was still blowing, so we headed back to our apartment and enjoyed the luxury of our outside space, somewhat sheltered from the fiercest wind, which as the afternoon wore on, began to abate. By mid to late afternoon the sea was calming, and the wind little more than a stiff, cooling breeze. Some of the morning’s ferries had been cancelled, so it was pleasing (as ever!) to see the Seajets Speedrunner Jet arrive and depart, indicating that, after a day of excitement normality was returning to our little piece of paradise.
We had commented earlier in the week that the climate and temperature had been very pleasant – warm and sunny at all times, but nor stiflingly hot like we have remembered from previous travels. But yesterday there was a sense that the weather was changing – getting warmer – and we woke today to find it hot, very hot!
For most of this trip the day time temperature has been in the high twenties, but by today it had soared into the low to mid-thirties and, at this temperature, it does get uncomfortable, unless you do something about it. Our solution – hop on the bus to Agnontas and enjoy the refreshing allure of the sea whenever we needed it (which was pretty often!)
Having been up early yesterday morning for our trip, we had a lazier start today, not making it to the beach until midday, but then we decided to stay longer, enjoying a meal on the beach before getting the bus back home.
As we sat looking out to sea, enjoying the last of the evening sun, we did spot a few clouds which herald a forecast change to the weather again tomorrow – temperatures in the high twenties, accompanied by strong winds in the morning. But the sun will still be shinning!
Even if you are not a fan (Becky is, I’ve seen it, enjoyed it, but wouldn’t call myself a fan) if you find yourself on Skopelos you probably should take a pilgrimage to Agios Ioannis Chapel, aka the church on the rock made famous in the film Mamma Mia. We booked a mini-bus tour from Skopelos Travel for 35 euros each, to include taking us to the chapel for about an hour, then taking us to a “Mamma Mia beach” – Kastani beach – for four hours.
It was worth it. I like to think we would have gone to the church even if Mamma Mia had never existed. It looked stunning set on a rocky outcrop and even climbing the two hundred steps to the top was not as tough as I feared. It reminded me of one or two of the remote churches we encountered on out Greek Odysessy across the Cyclades last year. A small church sat in a wonderful location, whatever your beliefs, or none, it was a place to think and reflect, and take in the natural beauty of the world around us.
The inside of the church was tiny (it was not used in the film); I did like the stained glass window.
After an hour at the site (more than enough – if visiting independently, I’d budget for 45 – 60 mins) it was back on the bus to Kastani beach, where the famous “flipper” scene was filmed on the pontoon stretching out from the beach into the sea. The pontoon doesn’t actually exist, it was made especially for the film (based on the smaller version at Agnontas beach that we saw yesterday.
The beach was busy and crowded, pulled by the draw of beautiful water, but more likely it’s Mamma Mia fame. We turned left and scrambled over some rocks to find ourselves a shady spot overlook the most beautiful clear blue water. I couldn’t wait to get in.
On this whole trip, the water, and the swimming, has been fantastic throughout, but I think the sea today topped all others. I just can adequately describe the colour and clarity of the water. I spent a long time in it!
The water was lovely, but we probably won’t return to Kanstani beach – in areas it was busy, with loud thumping music – we are clearly ageing, this wasn’t for us (although glad we went).
Another great day, I will watch the film again when we get home so I can pick out those spots we’ve now seen.
Today was another beach by bus day, and we went to the closer beach of Agnontas, a quick 15 minute, 2 euro (each way) bus hop across the base of the island. We set up camp at the fare end of the small beach, overlooked by a rather menacing and defiant goat and their three kids
I must confess as I took my first swim if the day, along the cliff that fringed the beach, and I explored a sea cave directly beneath momma goat, I was doing some mental calculations and reaching the conclusion that whilst, on land, I would come a very poor second to the goat, in the unlucky event that it did venture into the water I reckoned I could probably out swim it, so carried on enjoying the clear blue water.
The beach was lovely – not as big as Panormos the day before, and so it felt slightly more crowded, we both said we preferred it to the previous day’s beach.
Our umbrella has been a must, providing us with much needed shade, and our chairs a comfortable addition to this year’s travels that will probably now accompany us on all of our trips.
The evening found us back in Skopelos town and we spent a wonderful minutes watching the swifts whirl and screech in the evening sunlight. Whilst not quite the masses we witnessed four years ago in Corfu town, they are majestic to watch as the spin through the sky, seeking out their supper of insects whilst still on the wing.
And then we thought of our supper, to, and decided on this taverna:
I love the Greek lettering, and was curious as to its name so used the magic of Google translate to discover …
means “Moles”. It was a good choice, the food was delicious, the setting (and company) beautiful and, as Becky reminded me, its the detail that is important.
Our only regret is that we didn’t have the fried zucchini as a starter, and rued our decision when we saw what arrived when other diners had chosen it. Not to worry, we’ll amend that error with return visit to “Moles” later in the week.
We arrived on Skopelos yesterday afternoon and climbed our way up lots and lots (89 to be precise) stone steps to our home for the week, but it was worth it – a great two floor appartment, with a fantastic view out over the habour, and swifts screeching and swirling above our heads. We explored the labyrinth of cobbled streets, got lost more than once, before enjoying a delicious meal (is there any Greek meal that isn’t delicious?!) one street back from the front, elvated and looking down on the bustling street below. Skopelos is not big, loud and bright, but it certainly is more busier and more “commercial” than Alonissos. It is pretty, charming and delightful.
Today we took the bus to the nearby beach of Panormos.
There is essentially one bus route on the island, that starts in Skopelos town, heads across to the South West corner of the island, and then wends itself up the west coast to Glossa, before heading back again.
The busses are quite frequent, but with a few odd “blind spots” – nothing in the 9 o’clock, or the same for the return – nothing in the 5 oclocks – you buy your ticket before boarding (although you can pay on the bus) the cheapest fare is 2 euros, ranging to 4 euros for Glossa. We went halfway up the island and paid 3 euro each, each way. It was a bit of a scrum getting on the 10.30 am bus, we snagged seats, but not all did, and after the first stip it started to thin out and we enjoyed the 30 minute air conditioned ride to the beach resort of Panormos.
It was a pretty, shingle, beach in a bay with wonderfully clear water that got deep very, very quickly. (For me this is a plus, I love swimming in deep clear water, feeling the infinity of water below me supporting me as I glide and bob across the surface. Becky disagrees, spending her time imagining creatures from the deep all set to swim up and feast on her flesh. I had a lovely day spent swimming, Becky enjoyed sitting in the cooling shallows, watching the world go by, waiting for me to be dragged under to a watery grave!)
In the evening, having enjoyed a Gyros plate in a town square taverna (pictured above), we wondered the streets as darkness fell. The seafront was busy and bustling, but not loud or intimidating.
At the end of the seafront, we saw some stairs, so had to climb them …
because Becky remembered something “about a donkey” So like the pack animal I so often am on holiday, I laboured my way up, and up and up some more stairs …
(… to be fair, pausing at a pretty little whites washed church and soaking in the scenery below) until we saw …
The Donkey!
Apparently it’s a thing in Skopelos, but it was just a bar full of beautiful young people and loud music – with my aching legs I felt old and out of place so ambled back down the hill to our apartment and chilled in quite, calm darkness of our balcony, another day well spent.
Corfu and Kefalonia, Sifnos and Syros: at some point you have all held the number one spot in my heart as my favourite Greek island, but after a week on Alonissos you have all been knocked of that perch.
Alonissos has been wonderful, my new favourite Greek island. It is pretty with the green pine trees that were missing from the Cyclades, the swimming has been superb – crystal clear water from stone or shingle beach (contrary to popular opinion, neither Becky nor I are fans of sandy beaches), its had enough to keep one interested, but no so busy it feels overcrowded. It has been “authentically” Greek, with friendly people and delicious food. As we sat munching cakes and coffee at our favourite bakery for breakfast, Becky commented that we haven’t heard blaring music once during our holiday; we must be getting old as we increasingly seek peace and tranquillity as hallmarks of a good trip!
As I write, we await the mid-day(ish) arrival of this ferry (Seajets Superstar) to take us on a thirty minute journey to Skopelos, and begin the next phase of our Sporades adventure.
Today we went for a day out to Kokkinokastro, a beach about 15 minutes up the south-east coast of the island. There are not many bus routes on Alonissos – a few up to the Chora, and then two to Steni Vale, but not ’til 2pm – but there is a company – Aqua travel – that run a trip to a different beach each day of the week. We chose Kokkinokastro as we were told it was pretty – it was, the swimming was good – it was, and it was quiet – it was. It was 6.50 euros each for the round trip, picking up at 10.15, and departing the beach at 4pm
It was very pretty, the beach pebbly (which we like) and the water crystal clear and soon got deep enough to have you out of your depth. One section of the beach was “organised”, and there was a small beach bar, which we didn’t use as we set up camp further along the beach and I was to chilled to make the short walk across the stony shore.
We headed home, showered and headed back out ready for an evening of dance! We had seen signs for Alonissos festival of dance, on the 4th – 6th July, and our (very) limited Greek, coupled with google translate and talking with a taverna owner earlier in the week suggested that the festivities would start at 8pm. We found a table in taverna with a good view of the stage that had been erected, and watch in growing anticipation as circles and numbers were chalked onto the road in front of by the organisers.
By 8.15, we saw some costumed dancers walking into town, but still now sign of action. By 8.30 we could make our meal last no longer, so paid up and went to find a wall near the stage to stand and watch. Eventually, at 9.30 (ish!) the dancers paraded down the main road from the port, and then began dancing on the street behind us, directly in front of where we had been sat. Then, though, the main event began and the all processed, whilst dancing, onto the stage in front of us.
It is hard to estimate how many dancers there were, but would guess circa a thousand, and it took over half an hour for them all to make their way onto, and then off, the stage, all the while dancing to live music. It was a magnificent spectacle, and a privilege to witness and watch.
