An Andalusian Adventure – day 4

A walk on the wild side

Today was our last day in Nerja, and we woke to blue skies, but a stiff (strong?) wind. We decided to explore, on foot, the coast to the west of the town, and headed off along a long beach, walking into the wind, and passing a significant number of people walking in the other direction. The sea was choppy, with waves breaking on the shore line – the weather definitely felt different from the previous few days.

However, with the blue sky above our heads, and the sun bathing us in a brilliant light, it was a pleasant, if blustery 1.5km walk along the sea front. When out of the wind, the sunshine was warm, but, on arriving at a collection of hotels and apartments at the end of the beach, it did very much have an end of season feel to the place.

A few hardy souls were braving the beach, but the space and emptiness was notable, if peaceful and relaxing. The few restaurants that we encountered had closed for the season, and it became apparent that the reason we passed so many people heading in the other direction was because they were heading towards Nerja, with its bustle and business, and cafes, restaurants and shops still open. Travelling in late October, most Med resorts will be shutting down, with all the tourists having gone home for another year, but Nerja is big enough to still be going strong on the 26th October.

We did come off the beach to explore a watch tower over looking the sea – an interesting ten minute diversion, but you couldn’t get into, or up the tower.

“The Old Tower of Macaca”

We then headed back to Nerja along the same beachfront we had walked earlier, this time, with the wind at our backs, our fleeces came off and it was warm in enough to walk in just a T-shirt. Back in “town” we had some lunch in a sea front cafe, and the coffee in a cafe in the square – this was out of the wind, and in the sun, and I took the opportunity to practise my Spanish on the waiter and by reading the paper.

I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to have a last swim, so we headed to the same beach we had visited yesterday: being a little further along the coast in the other (easterly ) direction, and being a small cove behind rocks, it was more sheltered and warm, but the sea was still rough and wavy. But it was great fun swimming out and then being swept in by the breakers and for twenty minutes I (and another couple of middle aged men) was seven years old again, enjoying the power of the sea.

In the evening we went out to eat – it was still light as we sat down, but chose a table near a wall and under a portico to afford some shelter from the wind which was still strong and cold. It was dark by the time we had finished and paid the bill, and decided on an amble to the Balcon de Eroupa to take in the vista one last time, but as we stepped out we felt a few drops – it had begun to rain. Change of plan, and a purposeful walk home, the rain was not heavy – yet – but soon after we got back it was pouring.

An Andalusian Adventure – day 3

The White House(s)

With the American Presidential election less than two weeks away, it is hard to escape the race to White House in the news cycle, but today we did our best, escaping to the white houses of the pretty village of Frigiliana, a small, and very pretty “pueblo” or village, nestled in the hills about 5 miles north of Nerja.

We hopped on the local bus – 1.30 euros each – for the 10 minute journey and hopped off to begin exploring. Not really knowing where to go or what to do, we headed off in what seemed a good direction, which took us to the new town, and some spectacular views over the mountains and dried up river bed beyond the city boundaries.

We then found the tourist information office, got ourselves a (free) map, plotted a route and headed off into the old town. Although we didn’t get far before we stopped for coffee, churros and a chill. Black coffee is the fuel for our travel adventures and in our three days in Andalusia it has been hot, strong, and cheap – perfecto! Re-energised, we began our amble along picturesquely pretty streets, all houses painted white, often adorned with pots and plants.

Along the way, the route was punctuated with mosaic pictures telling a story in image and words. I did my best to translate them, they were tricky, but I did get the general sense that they were telling the story of the conflict in these regions between the Christians and the Muslims in centuries gone by.

My not to be trusted translation skills also suggested that, according to our map, there was a sculpture celebrating the “three cultures” to be found. Navigating to this point, I found the “Mill house” – casa del molino – and a grinding wheel on a plinth, but that couldn’t be it, surely. Then I spotted this:

… and I saw the light! A sculpture depicting the crescent moon of Islam, a Star of David, and a cross – the three cultures, it made sense to me. And seeing the plaque, my thinking was confirmed …

“Three Cultures, Two Sculptors, and One God.” by Perry Oliver and Robert Harding. There was more artwork to be found in the town – we visited the working gallery of Klaus Hinkel whose work is clearly inspired by the town

and later on found another gallery display some interesting work (sadly I don’t have any info about this gallery, or the artists, or the art they created, other than “I liked it”) The first photo below is a sculpture made of wool – instantly recognisable as a painting I can’t name! – and the second a stunning eye made from small cuts of fabric.

Frigiliana was a delight to visit. There are a couple of hiking routes (I think – we didn’t do any of these) that run from Frigiliana to Nerja, one is 7km and one (GR249 stage 5) 14km that would make a good day for the fit and adventurous. I’d get the bus to Frigiliana and walk to Nerja – that way you’d be going downhill! But after traipsing the Caminito del Ray yesterday, our aching limbs prompted us to get the bus back into town.

Back in town, we headed to the beach – the other side from where we went two days ago – and had myself another swim. The water was still “refreshing” (code for a little cold!) but was so clear. Swimming along the coast, I went past some rocks and discovered and explored a couple of other coves. It was a lovely place to swim – although possibly pipped by Kimilos, one of the best places I have swum all year.

A Greek Odyssey – day 21

The best swimming yet

Today we went back to our secret cove but, for the first time since we left Santorini all those days ago, the wind wasn’t blowing, and the sea was calm. We set up “camp” in the same spot as yesterday and then soon took to the waters, which were still, and so clear.

Yesterday it had felt safe swimming in our little cove as it provided shelter from the breakers, today I was happy to swim out further and deeper and explore what lay to the left and right of our little slice of heaven. Rounding the the “headland” at the top of our cove, I didn’t find another lovely beach, but instead a sea cave going under the cliff face. With the sea calm, I felt emboldened to go in an explore – the cave was, perhaps, 5 metres from the front to the back, and the water about waist high. The light in a sea cave has to be seen to be believed, and it is very different looking into the cave, as from the cave looking out.

But it wasn’t just exploring the cave that was fun, the swimming – in deep (by deep I mean at least out of my depth) clear water, some ten or fifteen metres from the shore was delicious. The best swimming of our trip so far.

And talking of delicious, this evening we returned to the garden taverna we dinned in a few nights ago, enjoying the food, and probably the prettiest setting we have eaten in all trip.